Manteigas is a charming town in the centre of the mountain region of Serra da Estrela, just under 2 hours drive from the moinho. Covilhã may be the main town in the region, and certainly worth a visit, but Manteigas offers more of the traditional 'mountain experience'. Nestled in the base of a glacial valley, its steep winding streets, seemingly stacked one on top of one another, offer good bars and restaurants, attractive spots to sit and enjoy the views and the fresh air, and numerous activities including walks, museums, and textile factories.
The name of the town itself, coming from the Portuguese for 'butter' would seem to be linked to the area's traditional dairy production; though this is not known for certain, and it has also been suggested that it's related to the soft, misty climate of the valley, resembling the smoothness of butter!
You don't have to stroll far out of town before you're likely to come across one or two of the shepherds that this area is known for - always accompanied by their 'Serra da Estrela' mountain dogs. These shepherds provide both milk for the famous cheeses of the area and wool for the even-more-famous textiles from here, and we'd recommend taking a deeper dive into both.
For the wool, we'd recommend visiting both Burel Factory and Ecolã, traditional wool factories from the town, with outlets next to each other. Wool production has been key to the local economy here since the Middle Ages, with the Bordaleira, the local heritage sheep breed, particularly well-regarded for its wool. A number of factories thrived here after the industrial revolution, though cheap textiles led to the decline of traditional methods of textile production and many closed at the end of the 20th century, after Portugal joined the EU and the country became more exposed to global trade. These days there has been something of a renaissance of wool products here, with a focus on high quality and craftsmanship. The 'Burel' style of wool production, originally favoured by shepherds in the area for its particular durability and resistance to cold and wet weather, has become highly prized and is now used for a large range of products.
For the cheese, we'd recommend a visit to Queijaria Manteigas (for a good glass of wine as well as the cheese!). As well as a good range of petiscos in general, they offer a selection of artisan cheeses made from the local heritage breed of 'bordaleira' sheep - including the iconic 'amanteigado' cheeses; so buttery you eat them with a spoon!
If you're in the area, there is an annual cheese festival in the nearby town of Celorico da Beira each February. There's also an annual summer celebration of 'transumância', the seasonal movement of herds and their shepherds, following ancient migration routes for grazing.
Another lovely spot, especially for breakfast is Infusão - worth the detour alone for its position overlooking the little stream that cascades through the centre of town. The fare on offer is just as good though, with a great selection of teas (and decent coffee too!) and high quality cakes and pastries as well as more substantial fare.
Just outside the town itself, there are some great walks, including - to the south - one taking in the impressive waterfall 'Poço do Inferno'; and - to the north - the Rota das Faias (Route of the Fairies) offering stunning views, local legends, and impressive woodlands, particularly in the autumn, when it is a well-known spot as a great place to wade through the autumn leaves.
This is just a few of the things on offer in Manteigas that we've tried, but there are plenty more - including a museum on the history of the glacial valley, which we'd like to visit next time. Let us know if you come across any gems here!
Manteigas is certianly well worth a stop, and we'd especially recommend it as a base for skiing in the area, which is around 45 minutes away.
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